고구마 Chapter 2: Walking Through the Capital of Baekje/ 고구마

 🍂 Chapter 2: Walking Through the Capital of Baekje

As the morning sun began to shine over the plains of Iksan, the two slowly left the hotel. The city’s quietness throughout the night had settled their minds, and they seemed to have already grown accustomed to the rhythm of this place.

“Today’s the day we meet the king’s city,” Luca said softly.

Jaeyun unfolded a map. “Our first stop is the Mireuksa Temple Site. It’s said to have been founded by King Mu himself. There, we can feel the last dreams of Baekje.”

🏛 Mireuksa Temple Site — Walking Through the Heart of Baekje
The road to Mireuksa was quieter than expected. Makeshift farmhouses along the roadside, vast fields, and the occasional sight of traditional hanok roofs made it clear that this was still a city living within its history.

Upon arrival, a grand space unfolded before them. The sprawling ruins of a massive temple on the wide plains, with the Mireuksa Stone Pagoda standing solemnly at its center, bearing the marks of time.

“This… isn’t just a pile of rocks,” Luca exhaled, looking up at the pagoda.

At its base was an information plaque:

📜: "National Treasure No. 11, Mireuksa Stone Pagoda — The central pagoda of Mireuksa Temple, founded by King Mu of Baekje. In 2009, an inscription on a reliquary discovered during restoration revealed that King Mu’s queen was the daughter of Sataek Jeokdeok."

“The love story of King Mu and Queen Sataek is embedded here,” Jaeyun said. “This is evidence of his vision to make Iksan a new capital.”

The two headed to the nearby Iksan National Museum. The building had a modern, streamlined design, but inside, it was filled with the essence of Baekje.

As they entered the exhibition hall, they were greeted by gilt-bronze incense burners, pottery, and Buddhist statues. The elegant curves and simple yet refined patterns of Baekje craftsmanship caught their eyes.

“How can artifacts over a thousand years old feel so alive?” Luca murmured, gazing through the glass.

In one corner of the museum, a video played, showcasing the reliquary inscription found at Mireuksa. It wasn’t just carved stone—it was a document weaving together love, religion, and politics of an era.

“I think I understand a little why King Mu chose Iksan. The whole city feels like his vision,” Jaeyun said quietly.

🍽 A Hidden Gem Near Mireuksa — Mireuksan Sundubu
Lunchtime. The two found a small restaurant called Mireuksan Sundubu, just a 10-minute walk from the temple site. A tiny garden adorned the entrance, and the scent of wood filled the air inside.

“This feels… like a real ‘mom-and-pop’ place,” Luca said, smiling as he looked around.

The signature dishes were soft tofu stew (sundubu-jjigae) and tofu cutlet. The tofu melted in their mouths, rich and smooth, while the cutlet had a crispy exterior with a light, delicate inside.

“The food here feels sincere rather than flashy,” Jaeyun remarked, pausing his chopsticks. “Simple, but unforgettable.”

🏯 Wanggung-ri Ruins — Walking Through a Baekje Palace
Their next destination was the Wanggung-ri Ruins. After a 15-minute drive, they arrived at a vast field where a five-story stone pagoda towered.

“This… was a palace?” Luca asked, scanning the surroundings.

According to the guide, this site had been actively developed as a potential palace location when Baekje attempted to move its capital to Iksan, and several palace structures had indeed been excavated.

The area around the pagoda was quiet, and the two began walking slowly in the stillness.

“It’s kind of sad. Baekje dreamed big but couldn’t make it happen,” Luca said, tracing the shadow of the pagoda with his hand.

“But that dream remains. People like us still come to see it,” Jaeyun replied.

☕ The Bamboo Forest of Guryong Village — A Walking Meditation
Leaving the ruins, they headed to the nearby bamboo forest in Guryong Village. Though famous on social media as a “photo-worthy spot,” it was far more serene and beautiful in person.

Walking along the path lined with towering bamboo, the two focused on the scenery in silence.

“Just walking here feels good,” Luca said.

The sky had deepened into a rich blue, and the sunlight filtering through the bamboo gave the illusion of time standing still.

Later, at the nearby café Wanggung Dawon, Jaeyun ordered traditional teas—citron tea and jujube tea. The café opened up to a garden, with hanok-style windows left ajar.

“I’m glad we came here,” Luca said, lifting his cup. “This city has so much more depth than I expected.”

📚 The Dreams of Baekje — King Mu’s Legacy
At the café, the two revisited Baekje’s history.

“Baekje moved its capital three times: Hansung → Ungjin → Sabi. And King Mu dreamed of making Iksan a new beginning,” Jaeyun explained.

“Queen Sataek was his wife and a symbol of Iksan. She represented both power and culture.”

“That’s why Iksan isn’t just a provincial city—it’s where Baekje’s final dreams were kept.”

That evening, the two returned to their lodgings, savoring the harmony of history and the city. Outside the window, a crimson sunset unfolded—sweet like roasted sweet potatoes, sorrowful yet dignified, like Baekje itself.

“I think I understand Iksan a little better now,” Luca whispered. “Tomorrow… let’s explore its flavors even more.”